Sunday, February 22, 2009

Itinerary - As Current As Possible

This post will hold my past and future itinerary. It will be subject to change, obviously, as events conspire to f*ck me up. At the end of the blog entries, you may find pictures at the album links (to Facebook) and/or map links (to Google Maps).



N.B.: I am adding pictures inline with the blog as well as backdating, and I will also be dating the posts so that they become a chronological story. Never fear, any posts I backdate I will put the original authoring/editing date in at the end. For instance, London's first blog was written January 21, 2009 for the trip December 14, 2008. The blog date reflects December 14, 2008, but there is a line at the end saying [GJF: Written January 21, 2009]

12/2/08: England (Cheltenham) [Incomplete]
12/7/08: Stonehenge and Bath, England [Complete, inlining pics]
12/13/08: Gloucester, England - Rugby and Cathedral [Complete]
12/14/08: London, England - Day Trip 1 [Complete]
12/18/08: London, England - Day Trip 2 [Incomplete]
12/19/08-12/21/08: Paris, France [Pics partially done, Blog incomplete]
12/22/08: A night at Heathrow [Complete (no pics)]
1/13/09: A return to Cheltenham [Blog incomplete]
1/17/09: Cardiff, Wales [Complete]
1/18/09: Machynlleth, Wales [Trip postponed :-( Weather]
1/23/09-1/25/09: Stirling, Scotland [Complete]
1/30/09-2/1/09: Palermo, Sicily [Incomplete, Album and Placeholder]
2/7/09: Oxford, England [Complete, inlining pics]
2/8/09: Cambridge, England [Trip postponed, weather and work :-(]
2/13/09-2/15/09: Belfast, N Ireland [Incomplete, Album and Placeholder]
2/21/09-2/24/09: Pisa/Florence, Italy
2/28/09-3/1/09: York, England
3/1/09: Cambridge, England [Rescheduled]
3/7/09-3/8/09: (?) Barcelona, Spain Madrid, Spain
3/15/09: Machynlleth, Wales [Rescheduled]
3/16/09: Windsor, England
3/21/09-3/22/09: (?) Lisbon, Portugal Porto, Portugal
3/28/09-3/29/09: (?) Plymouth and Portsmouth, England
4/3/09-4/6/09: Dublin/Cork, Ireland

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4/24/09: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
4/28/09: Dusseldorf, Germany
4/29/09: Bad Ischl, Austria
??
5/10/09: Frankfurt Am Main, Germany

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MAP: ALL SIGHTS-ITINERARY

Friday, February 13, 2009

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Oxford - The Heart of the Monarchists

I thought I was prepared. I prereserved the tour and got all of my maps together. Car had gas, it was an hour drive, and it was clear as a bell out. Therefore, by all reasonable accounts, since it was not snowing and not GOING to snow, for a change, the weather was beautiful. I even woke up on time.

It's cold out. Really really cold. And being on top of a bus that hit about 30 mph in spots was not such a good idea.

Let's start at the beginning...


I tried to do things a little bit differently, this time. From all my previous experiences, the largest common failing I could see was a great deal of time 'wasted' walking around. The second-largest was a tendency to forget details, like people's names, exactly which events came before or after which, the exact wording of a funny comment or situation, you know, life's little devils. So... Friday evening, I came up with a Plan to mitigate these things, being the Great Designer I know I am, it was (of course) foolproof.

But what does Nature do when someone foolproofs something? Yah. Along comes a bigger fool. Me.

I've had passionate arguments about overcommitting to a schedule. Several of my friends (who shall remain nameless for now) are 'schedulers'. They have itineraries down to the minute, and totally freak out, become despondent or enraged (!) if traffic sets them behind or they can't find parking in the spot where it SHOWS there to be parking on the map dammit and why did they have to put 30 handicapped spaces in? My major points against this: First, I think it limits spontanaeity on a trip, and second, I don't want to die of agita within the next two years. Somehow, in the stress of obtaining details for a blog which in the Grand Scheme doesn't really matter, and wanting to see All Of Europe In 20 Or So Days Off, I lost sight of those two points for which I have surrendered nights in a warm bed, and for which I have dodged airborne dishes, glassware, and assorted cutlery, as well as the odd sharp kick (aimed low) over the years. Yea, children, I did schedule, and scheduled mightily I did. For me.
I've read some other best-of's for the places I've been to, and I noticed that occasionally, there would be something I didn't see, or a tour that I missed out on because I arrived too late, or a building I didn't know was there, or a Great Life-Changing Meal For The Eating in a Hole-In-The-Wall a block away from a corner I passed six times throughout the day. So, to mitigate this, I would do my research, and come hell or high water, I'd stick to the plan. I would make damn sure I had a comment for each of the buildings or sights on the map, I'd plot out the addresses and ask for directions or look at house numbers. I'd have all of the tour times written down or prepaid and print everything out in a 'dossier' to study four or five (or more for those 'foreign places') times before I arrived. My Oxford dossier was pretty thin. A reservation for the open-top bus tour at 10, reasonable since Oxford was less than an hour away, opening hours for the Castle tour window, a list of Japanese restaurants to hit, the office from which I could rent a punt, a street map...

Unknown to me, It was -1 (30 F) outside when I woke up in Cheltenham. I had the heat set to 'disintegrate' in the room, the setting which made the closest approximation of human-livable temperature in the center region between the heater and the window. This did have the beneficial side effect of instantly drying my hair and body when I turned the shower water off, but it had the detriment of occasionally requiring, after any length of time in the 'zone', immediate submersion of myself and any leather articles in 45 degree water, followed by pure white-petrolatum application, or else become a cracked, dessicated pile of salt. The most comfortable radius ends up being about 10-12 feet from the heater, and 6-8 feet from the window, which gives me a 2-foot curved region on the bed where I can not-freeze and not-bake. The fetal position fits this rather well, and what a stroke of luck! That's been my natural inclination lately.

After crawling out of my nice warm cocoon to the chaotic alarm, toying with the idea of smashing the phone, and scrubbing some of the crud out of my eyes, I went ahead with the plan. I plugged my MP3 player into the computer and initiated a backup (20 minutes...), as well as started the charge on my camera battery. I had already sent the 'dossier' via email to the front desk for printing. I made my way down, taking the stairs for exercise and convenience. Naomi, our helpful clerk, continued her sacrifices to the gods of Bureaucracy, clicking and pointing, the odd keystroke for menu selection echoing through the vacant lobby.

"Psst."

"..."

"Psst!"

"Oh, yes, Mr. Feichtinger?"

"That thing?"

"What?"

"That thing I sent, is it ready?"

"What? I'm sorry? And what's that in your hair? Mousse?"

I had apparently had some shaving foam caught above my sideburn. Siiigh. Erasing it with my palm, I informed her that I had sent an email the previous evening containing a couple of 2-page documents to print out, if she didn't mind. She happily did (what a great girl!), and of course, commented on the choice of 'dossier' for the title, and peeked as they printed. "Oh!" I, of course, commented in turn on her delightful Oh. "Yes, well, I've been to London about 50 times and I *always* go on the open-top tour! You learn so much from those, they're lovely!" I was pleased to meet someone with experience in this realm. We chatted about all of the different tours available all over the world and how they have multiple languages. I confided in her that I'd never been on an open-top bus tour before. I was cheered at the positive feedback on this tour, the gem in my day! Frankly, I was very heartened, because I'd gone bananas and prebooked the similar tour in Belfast for next week! I took the four papers with all of my confirmation numbers and maps and coupons and times, and made my way to the Express Breakfast Bar. Cereal and coffee. I'll skip the cereal and grab something later on, but I'll have some coffee. Yeah, and some more. While I was making my way back to the stairs, I must have triggered the door mechanism in the lobby, because a WHOOSH filled my ears, and suddenly the icy finger of death tickled back of my neck. It passed quickly, but... "Naomi, what's the temperature outside?" "Oh, it's about zero, but it's beautiful out! Should be warming up some today." "Oh ok, thanks... Shoot! Can you validate my parking?"

Back to the room, setting aside the warning signs coming together in my mind... I flung wide the drapes. It *was* clear as a bell out. Sun beginning to trickle over the buildings (about 8 am), blue vault above. Okay, well she's a native, she knows how it works around here... Got the camera together, Chucks on, mp3 player emptied, it and headphones en poche. Right! All assembled. Back down, out the door... wow! That'll wake you up! Cold and wet. Ice from the past days' snow on the ground, treacherous in the range -1..1 because of the water on top. The roads were coated in frozen-over slush in most places, due to the 'grit' shortage England was experiencing. I pushed aside my unfair cultural comparisons. So what? Two inches of snow (max!) sticks around for three days and continues to make hazard to pedestrian and traffic alike. It's a different culture... I went into the car park and cranked the car, put the heat up to max, and made sure the wiper reservoir was filled. I do learn, occasionally. Luckily, the garage had been dry, so there was no sliding on the way down. This changed immediately upon hitting the road. A matte-finish sheen stared back at me as I considered my right-turn out onto the intrepid highway. I looked at the thermometer in the car - -1 C. Off we go!

By this time, I had left and returned (solo) to Cheltenham about six times. Every single time, I got routed around the City Centre. The signs here are confusing at best, and I think they are a relic of pre-mall days when merchants used to want to make people see their signage from their vehicles as they passed through the town. I remembered the trip to Stansted the previous week, and how easy it was Eastbound, and then the miserable route around back Westward into town. I resolved to pay attention this time, and remember my landmarks. Whoa! And pay attention to the other cars, sliding across my field of vision from time to time. I fishtailed around a corner, almost swiping the curb in front of a box factory (I'll remember that!), ran (slid through) the light at a church-turned-funeral-home (must make a right here on the way back), and I was free! Sailing along at 30 mph on A40 in Gloucestershire at large, outside the City Limits, with only limited slippage!

I knew I had to take the A40 to the A34, south. Since I was coming from the west, the A34 should be the first major Oxford exit (roundabout), and go right. The map told me 43 miles from Cheltenham to Oxford. I decided I would spend my time focused on the road, for at least the next 45 minutes or so (speed limit 50), and not worry so much about 'where' I was on the old mental-map. Good thing. The road was icy. Really icy. I saw a Land Rover overturned about 2 miles east of Cheltenham, it looked like a spaceship had torn up the earth. Must have slid across the road from that bend coming up, ... slow down, dumbass! Yup, the sun (in the east, of course) showed me the ice slick. The road became a sheet of fire. I couldn't see the car in front of me, so I slowed further. They were doing the same. We inched along at about 10-15 miles per hour for 5 or 6 miles, because the ice was strategically placed that there would always be a blinding burning patch in the roadway, until a convenient hill and some trees gave us some relief, and the road curved northwards. We went around the Eynsham roundabout, the Vauxhall in front of me's tires caught ice on the north arc and it spun in place at 40 miles per hour, tires going like mad, then sliding, gliding along. I downshifted (no brake use!) immediately on seeing the SUV fishtail, me coming onto the circle, and through a stroke of luck glided past on the right, staying on the circle, as she was spiraling leftward to the east exit and curb. I had a flashback to my experience with black ice in Upstate New York, when I did a 540. Four-thirty in the morning, going to work, someone coming up the hill the other way, and performing a complete spin and a half. Out of nowhere. This lady's expression - my expression at the time - horror at a 2-ton vehicle and it's capability to crush yourself and others, spinning completely out of your control. She caught the pavement, and continued eastward, slowly. She probably changed her underwear too. I saw a few gaps in the ice when I got the right view angle from the south side of the circle - just bad luck that her tires hit the way they did, really. I slowed down further on the south side, pumped the brakes a couple of times (south sun had cleared this side a little better over the past three days), and inched my way (5 mph) off the east exit.

The car's exterior thermometer varied from -3 to -1 (27 to 30 F) the entire trip. I got to the A34/A40 roundabout at about 9:40 or so, plenty of time for the 2 mile drive into Oxford, park at the railway station, and make the 10:00 tour. I mean, this was a *city*. Surely they'd have plows and grit and salt... No. It wasn't bad, mind you. Three days of traffic will take most of the slush and snow off the road. But the parking lots and smaller side roads were still caked and covered in ice, the sidewalks looked like skating rinks. I successfully navigated my way via the big blue P signs to where the tour company suggested I park. I pulled/crunched my way in, and got out of the car, went to the meter to pay, following the "Prepay and Display" signs. Wait a minute, this can't be right. This says it will cost me 20 pounds ($30) or more for six hours parking! I had a 'display' for that! Forget that, I'd park at the actual rail station. The dude who pulled in behind me had the same idea. He spun off, and I followed. We both went around the block to the railway's parking lot, guarded by a rather imposing concertina-wired gate. He attempted to stop and slid past the entry, then suddenly spun off again. Puzzled, I edged up, mindful of the ice, and settled into reading position for the sign. "Rail ticket required for parking?" What? An older lady was walking her *unbelievably* cute Yorkie along the icewalk. I rolled my window down, "Excuse me, ma'am. Is there anyplace you know of where I could park for less than 20 pounds a day in this town?" She sadly shook her head. "I dunno." she said. "I think that there's cheap, but I think you need a ticket to park there. It's a shame, isn't it?" Yeah. I thanked the nice lady and smiled at the dog, but it was sort of distracted trying to climb in and out of footprint-craters. Cuuuute... I slid off. All right, I'll make a right here, this is a main road, and it's right near the station. I'll see if I can park somewhere a little cheaper out of downtown and just follow this road. I drove along Botley Road, maybe a mile, and saw a Computer Centre, kind of like a Circuit City or Best Buy. Shoot! They've got a huge parking lot! I pulled in, ignoring the 'Park at Owner's Risk' sign, and crunched into a spot, through the 3 inches of undisturbed frozen snow. All righty then! Now I know, make a right out of the train station, walk a mile, on the south side of Botley is the car! 9:55! I'm sure the tour time isn't hard-and-fast... it said every 20-30 minutes. I needed the exercise anyway.

Unfortunately, my skating skills had been sorely neglected. The sidewalk was completely coated in a shell of half-inch thick packed slush that had frozen over. This meant that the various ripples and ridges in the slush froze solid and gave some traction, but it also made the 'smooth' areas really difficult to get past. I walked along the road, along with a few other intrepid travelers at that time of the morning, all of us straggling and slipping our way toward Oxford. I crossed the Thames and a couple of its canals, no punts visible, several ducks the only creatures brave and equipped enough for that water. The Thames and its banks around the rail station were less than impressive. A corrugated-tin Avis warehouse took up a good section of the east bank, and there were some bumper-tires set up to the south, presumably for Oxfordians to tie up their boats during the season. I came across a break in the ice strip when I went under the rail overpass at Botley, near my destination. An older lady was trying to make her way westward to the suburb, when she slipped and started to tumble! I moved as fast as my own unsure footing would allow, but she righted herself and straightened her jacket, gave me a quick grin, and began plodding on. I commented, "Maybe this is London's way of killing off the surplus population!" She got it immediately and started to chuckle, almost throwing herself into another sliding fit. We talked about the 'grit shortage' and how we should rest-assured, more sand and salt were on the way, being shipped in from, um, the mythical biblical land of sand and salt? Angela bid me good luck with the weather and the footing and made her treacherous way back under the overpass to get to the next corner, where she would be turning off onto another ice rink to skate her way home.

I crossed the street to the train/bus station, the road was pretty clear, so no issues there, and made my way into the area from where my tour bus would be departing. It was pretty obvious, it was the only stop with a double-decker bus with an open top in residence, and "City Sightseeing" and a sunny-swirly logo plastered in yellow along its red sides emphasized the point. Gauche and loud, but noticeable. It looked like I had a few minutes, the driver was sitting on his lowest step smoking a cigarette, the vapor of his breath and the smoke swirling out over the kiosk and into the parking lot. I walked up to him and asked if my reservation was still good. He confirmed that my ticket would be good all day, so I could catch any of the buses from here until about 4 pm. Excellent! With that ammunition, I decided to get my butt into the (warm) terminus, and grab some food and coffee. A streaky-bacon-n-eggy sammich-on-crescent-roll and large americano later, I hauled myself out to the stop again, now vacant, and planted my bottom under the kiosk. A few other guys, evidently workers, not tourists, had decided to use the Citysightseeing bus shelter as a coffee clutch point. They were smoking and having their morning joe, discussing the state of mass transit in England, and the like. Ever the nosy b*stard, I listened in.

As I mentioned, the topic of discussion was the bus/train/air system in England, and how to best get from Oxford to London or Oxford to Birmingham or Oxford to East Midlands airport, because "Fookin'" Tom (that was his favorite word, apparently) needed to tell his fookin' niece from the fookin' States how she could get around on a fookin' budget. They all sort of chortled at the concept of 'budget'. As Tom was going on about how he'd never been to fookin' Heathrow to pick up, just drop the fook off - suddenly, one of the fellows slipped and crashed to the ground on the median surrounding the shelters, and then all hell broke loose. Tom decided that enough was enough and took his steel-toe workin-man fookin' boots to the task. He and his mates started kick-chopping up the ice in great chunks and kicking the shards off to the sides. Sadly, the Chucks weren't up to that, but I walked over, and after a great laugh when I demanded their Union cards, started helping out with insightful commentary about grit placement and temperature and bus exhaust fumes, and the plot from Westminster to kill us all, yanks, tourists, and britons alike. We all had a pretty good time while I waited for the City Sightseeing bus. I did knock all the ice off the kiosk top.

The tour bus pulled in, and, after a driver change, I mounted the steps, showed the printout Naomi had so helpfully supplied me with, and got my ticket. I was also issued a pair of headphones and the instructions to turn the channel to '1' for English commentary. I asked the driver if there was an American commentary. He arched an eyebrow and replied something to the effect that most of the words required for the tour weren't in the American vocabulary, so I'd have to make do, and git my arse on the bus already. Wink. Ha. Quirky, indeed. That was funny. I laughed my way up the spiral stairs to the top of the doubledecker. The front third was a covered section, and then the rear two-thirds were open-top. I plopped myself in the protected area next to a boring- and bored-looking lady, almost nodding off to the headphones' drone in her ears. I excused myself and plugged in, turned on channel 1, and listened.

I was prepared. I had my mp3 player/recorder with me. I was going to listen to the tour, record voice notes, and take pictures of the sights. Then the Plan was to revisit the sights and Oxford Castle afterward, doing some detail-delving. Somewhere in there, I'd be close to one of the three restaurants I'd placed on the map. But the 'tour' would be the key to orienting myself in this city, as well as the primary vehicle (ha!) to get some good pictures. That was the Plan. As I sat, listening to the Saxon and Norman history of Oxford - before bridge-building, fords were extraordinarily important, as, historically, were oxen... the body count in the small compartment climbed, and the windows began to fog up! Oh no! I unplugged and cautiously waded through the pack of people that had accumulated in the cab and went through the creaky thin-paned door to the open-top. The seats were covered in snow and ice. I rolled my eyes at the sky and took to chipping the majority of the ice off the sunniest seat, then squatted over it, propping the small of my back against the seat-back, my feet against the bulkhead in front of me, and plugged into the channel one feed. Well, situated, but not comfortable. One cheek resting on the seat, most of my weight on my big toe, and spouting voice notes into the recorder. I stared into the camera-bubble facing me and gave the driver a big thumbs-up! Yup, one fool situated. The bus took off with a lurch. My foot slipped, back sliding down the seat, and my butt got a nice 0-degree bath. Yeah. Just what I needed. I re-propped, hoping that I would dry (or at least freeze-dry) some. The tour went on about the Castle, now passing on the left, and then the old college building on the right, more castle parts on the right now, the bailey, we were making a left, coming up on a Franciscan enclave. And look, there's the sweet shop that Alice (yes, Lewis Carroll's Alice) frequented! Holey moley! I was bent into the nook, trying to strain and crane my neck and the camera, nearly asphyxiating myself in my zeal to follow the tour, keep the headphones untangled, and pop off the odd photo-shot! Then I made a voice note to tell myself to look up Lewis Carroll - Reverend Dodgson as he was known at Oxford. We passed a pub at 25 miles per hour that the recording happily told me either the block before or after had been the frequent of the Inklings, which had included C.S. Lewis and Tolkien, and a place I wanted to know where stood! Dammit! I had wanted to have a pint there, or at least a picture of the Eagle and Child pub! Feh. It was cold. Colleges and churches and retail establishments were zooming by, dreaming spires reaching toward heaven, and I was still trying to focus on the tour and the pictures and the recordings.

In retrospect, a little further planning and familiarity with the tour would have been helpful. As would a towel or scarf and hat or any combination of the three. I should have planned to take the tour once and listened to the audio in 'comfort' on the inside of the bus, made my notes, then taken the tour a second time with the audio cues, and gotten the pictures. It ended up a frustrating, uncomfortable, jumbled mess. One building certainly stood out on the tour, though, and I perked up and paid attention. The Bodleian Library, one of the copyright libraries of England, gets a copy of every book copyrighted, and has since expanded underground to 12 stories down, right under the main street! The tour told us (as we pulled away, of course), that it can take up to six hours for a book to be transported via some wacky automation system from its home to the checkout where a student patiently waits for it. 120 miles of shelves. Now that's a library. Attached to the Bodleian was a really interesting circular building (Radcliffe Camera). It had carvings of roman heads surrounding it that the tour claimed no one knew what or why they were there. Odd, there's a perfect repository for records of that sort, uh, right next door! You'd think that the builders could maybe put some plans or thoughts down and kind of drop them on the library desk. There were a few facts that stood out too: Radcliffe fought tooth and nail to remain women-only for a very long time, and ultimately failed. Oxford is really proud of Clinton having been a Rhodes scholar. St John's College used to own land that stretched from Oxford to Cambridge (about 120 miles), and was the weathiest college in the University. Hidden in the commentary was a great deal of the politics inherent in the 'town vs. gown' mentality underlying Oxford. For instance, in 1209 (!), Cambridge was founded by a group of Oxford students who couldn't take the townies' abuse! During the Parliamentarian fits and spurts, Oxford was a staunch monarchist town, giving over Christ College and other major landmarks to Royal Army use against the Parliamentarians, Charles I and Charles II and Henry VIII seemed especially big fans of Oxford, while the folks in the town, starving and fed up, were parliamentarian. Riots were common in this town, the big forefront of that struggle. But the University was never threatened, the library never destroyed or rioted out. That was impressive. I lived in the town in which I went to college for about 10 years, with a family. My family had townie bad-sentiment and gownie snobbishness to deal with, as we made friends in both realms. I can only imagine what 800 or more years of that would boil up to!



As the tour progressed, a few more intrepid cold-weather-hardy folks bravely made their way to the open area. Most lasted about five minutes or so, a couple of kids (backpackers/hostelites) thought it would be fun to lean over the edge. Shortly after one of them performed this amazing aerial stunt of stupidity, the bus screeched to a halt, and we heard a clambering from the inner chamber. The driver burst out and said 'Oi! Can't you read?" He vaguely shakingly gestured at the sign saying 'Remain Seated' in 5 languages. He turned to me and looked me right in the face "I mean, if I were to hit the curb, with the ice packed as it is, and slide, you'd fall over! So please, mind yourself!" I spent the next minute or two trying to figure out if he was talking to me, the guy with his nether regions hovering an inch above a pool of freezing water, or to the student types who'd basically been playing kill-the-guy and tag on his bus. Then I kind of shrugged it off, settled a little lower in the seat (1/2 inch), bent my feet and back into a new spatial dimension to accommodate, gave another thumbs up to the cc camera. We were off!

By the time I clambered back down into the train station, I was a wreck. My hair was frozen, fingernails were blue, and I was hungry. I also had to use the facilities. While I was indulging myself, my legs buckled. Pain knifed crosswise through my knees, pushing me into a stumble into the wall next to the urinal. I could suddenly barely stand up! I gingerly and wobblily made my way to the sink and then through the door. My body was telling me to "SIT" and "STRETCH" my knees. They had apparently been overextended with my weight directed on the joint from the wrong angle for a bit too long. Like an hour too long. I couldn't find a dry bench, so I collapsed on the terminus's steps. I circled my ankles with my hands and pulled my feet back to me, and sat with my knees and back bent double, huddled. That seemed to help tremendously. I had recovered myself after about 5 minutes, probably also gaining a few stares I hadn't been able to look up to see. Thank goodness Cafe Orient, my first choice for lunch based on the reviews, was only a block or two away from the station, at 77 George Street. I made my way haltingly at first, then with a little more strength, and back to top shape by the time I exited the bus lot.

NOTE: Look for closings before planning a lunch. Cafe Orient, I figured out, after crunching and sliding a mile too far down George Street and back, had been closed, and replaced with a Nando's Chicken. Enough. I had seen a Yo! Sushi place, I assumed it was similar to the Zushi I had had in Cardiff and I was right. Suitable for the needs. Not as good as Zushi actually, the tuna was brownish, there was a lemon wedge on every plate (?), and they didn't have the 'spicy' options, but protein, wasabi, and fish oil - good for the cold. And hot green tea. I downed a seaweed salad (sweet/tart), a lobster salad (5 langostino tails in citrus), a squid appetizer (4 rings), about 4 plates of sashimi (@ 5 slices, which looked like some Gaijin had sawed at the tuna/abalone with a butter knife), and 2 handleless mugs of tea. Just pick it off from the conveyor track and dive on in!

It was time for me to go. I had conflicting obligations this evening, work and social. I didn't want to give one up for the other, so I figured I'd go back to the hotel and work for a bit, then try to get ahold of Gaz and apologize for being late. Optimism. It had warmed to 0 and 1 (32-34 F) by the time I made it to the car, of course, this had just made the sidewalk slipperier, but no spills or thrills this time. I took off northwards, back to A40, and after picking my way through a fully-awake university town (bikes, backpackers, pedestrians, tourists) at about 15 mph or less, I made it to the highway. The road had mostly melted, in the hills above Oxford to the west, the sun was out and clear, and the temperature had reached about 2. Also, I was on the south side of the road now, which should be getting more sun this time of year. I was still watchful. I noticed that the Land Rover had been towed from its crater, and then I saw a blue P for me to pull off. The hills were somewhat charming, so I took a 5-minute break there by the side of A40, with its view of the Cotteswold hills, and thought: You know, this is pretty cool, to take a morning/day trip, so what if I didn't do everything I wanted for the day? And then the schedule stress just kind of melted away and I was me again. Refinement is sometimes the better part of Design.

I made it back into Cheltenham, finally taking the efficient route and not driving through the hordes of mall-goers and vagabonds (right at the funeral home-church, left when I see the box factory), and pulled up to the queue at the Car Park. Apparently everyone was taking advantage of this lovely weather to do the Great British Pastime - walking around the mall, a.k.a City Centre or High Street. Oh, darn! Oxford's High Street ('the High') looked pretty interesting, most of the pubs seemed independent, and there were several museum-type shops that I'd like to go back and investigate sometime, but not that day. Anyway, the car park in Cheltenham was one-in, one-out. It was full. I just relaxed and waited the 15 minutes to get in, and I was well-rewarded! The one-out that just happened was right on the first floor! Right by the door out to the road! Ha! I re-entered the Holiday Inn to greet our Naomi again.

"Hey! You're still here!"

"Hiya, yea, I'm alone today, it's not too busy, and I had a call-in [GJF: someone called in sick or personal]. How was Oxford?"

"It was good! Very cold, but educational! Well, but it's beautiful out now! Everyone's out and about, the car park is one-in, one-out!"

"Really? Well, where are you off to?"

"Oh, I'm going back to my room to try to get some work done."

"Oh, ok, then. Good luck!"

"Thanks."


Album: Facebook "Oxford - Holey Crap It's Cold"




[GJF: Written 8 February 2009]

Friday, January 30, 2009

Palermo - Primo Giorno - Benvenuto a` Palermo!

I sprang out of bed on Friday like a shot, at 7:15. The alarm may have helped. I had it set to 'obnoxious'.

What a week! 10-hour days, trapped in a dungeon, guard and all, working my way to the weekend, both hoping and dreading today's arrival. I planned to mail my receipts off to Phoenix, and ship myself some of the souveniers I had accumulated over the past few weeks, so that I could give them to the kids and whomever else was deserving upon my return. OK! I bounced out of bed, killed the alarm, and had my tea. While it was cooling, I went through my bags to make sure that I hadn't forgotten anything. I sent my contact at home a quick text to make sure that the package would be well-received (no problem). And what the heck was he doing up at 2:40 anyway? I also wasn't sure if the hotel would kick me out when I closed the receipt, so I wanted to be prepared and fully packed in case I had to lug everything around town.

Adrenaline coursing, assisted by the tea-kick, I jumped into the shower, grabbed my pack, gave the room a once-over, twice-over, and screeched to the hotel front desk. Parking validated, I hopped impatiently in the next line, Inglesi [I will use this, it's shorter and less clumsy than "Englishmen/women" or "English people" and less formal than "the English"] eyeing me, like, "Mate, ..." Didn't care. Stuff to do, stuff to do... The checkout line finally parted, and I asked in my best New York accent wheyuh da pohs tawffis wuz. (-eyuh will be my triphthong for that uniquely New York ending of "where", "there", "hair", ...). Naomi tittered behind the desk and directed me to "Doubleyou Haitch Smith" on the high street. I got my sheaf of hotel receipts, made sure of my reservations for next week, was told they would be happy to print my itineraries, and was allowed to stay in the room even after I'd closed it out. What a great group of ladies! I bolted out the door, ran across the street (yes, looking RIGHT, then LEFT), and muscled, huffed, and puffed my way the three blocks to the High Street, backpack full of receipts and tourist crap from Wales, Scotland, and England weighing me down. But not for long! I got to the five and dime and noted the line outside. Dum de dum... I had plenty of time to spare, so I decided to treat myself to breakfast at Starbucks, a welcome change from my typical vending-machine fare at work. Plus, Starbucks is the only place I have found that has actual drip-coffee, as opposed to americano. I usually do the acrid espresso bite of the americano, but I was in an 'American' state of mind today, getting ready to go to the airport, show my passport, and the like. So I pushed through the familiar green-and-brown doors, glanced around the comforting yet plastic decor, noting the bright green mermaid-adorned aprons which clad the college students working the bar. I guess the UK missed the memo on the big apron switcheroo that happened last year, to brown. "Good morning," a friendly but acne-ridden teenager piped up, "What can I get for you?" I ordered a venti coffee and a crumb cake. When I looked in the bag later (outside back in front of the five-and-dime), I discovered that I had received a venti coffee and a coffee cake. No crummies. That's all right. I like both. Sigh.

I ate and drank, quite gauchely, in the American fashion, I gathered, from the expressions of the Cheltenhamians waiting alongside me at the W.H. Smith entry. Well, it's not like I offered them any! Maybe I should have.... I dusted the odd coffee-cakey flakes off my jacket just as the manager was opening the portculli guarding his shop. The crowd bolted (well, an English bolt, more like a riot-in-single-file) in, eager to get their chores out of the way. I, however, knew that I had yet another half-hour until the post office counters opened, so I leisurely (right!) finished my coffee, flung my rubbish in the street bin, and made my way into the main store. W.H. Smith is all over the place in England. Every airport has apparently at least two, every town at least one. I bet they're owned somehow by the "Virgin" conglomerate. Ha! They are 75-25 partners in the Virgin record megastores, just looked it up. Anyway. I wandered about, instantly dazed, trying to figure out why candies were next to asthma inhalers which were next to wrapping paper which were across from different candies. I eventually found the packing supplies. Bubble wrap, ginormous envelope, medium box, tape, ... That's about it! Juggling my goods, I asked a helpful-looking older stockeuse where I might find the post office counter. She directed me upstairs, which had me tapping my foot on the escalator and humming. Oh. Yeah. Whistling and humming does not happen in England. Unless I am around. Got to the PO counter, behind which there were five clerks readying their tills. I asked James, the one closest to the small prep table that thoughtfully was set up before the queue marker, if I might borrow his stapler. He *saluted* me and bowed and handed me the stapler. Oh. Kay. Thanks. Got the receipt packets together, stapled, numbered, bundled, and in the bigass envelope. Taped. Addressed. Done. Onto the goods... I had a 2-foot table for an 18-inch box. Augh! I went into a frenzy of wrapping and packing, bent useless staples, tape unstuck from every edge of the table, popped and pooped bubble wrap, ripped and wrinkled bags, folded and crumpled giftshop receipts, scraps of cardboard from the box panels, the odd teabag or granola bar wrapper escapee from my backpack, all eventually spilling out onto the floor, creating a constellation of pure American presence. I stuffed that box as full as possible, taped the sh*t out of it, wrote my address at the HI and Zyg's address in Palm Harbor in the proper places, in the requisite BLOCK CAPITALS, with my purple-assigned Sharpie. Thanks, Mike, for that.

Backpack repacked with my rubbish, the extra bubble wrap left for the next needy soul on the assembly table, and all my goods' barcodes ready for scanning at the register, I picked up the envelope and box and queued up, behind the four folks who had arrived to witness my pirhouette of inefficiency. James came back around the bulletproof post office barrier to retrieve his stapler, as he was ready to open. I handed it to him, over my forearm with a severe nod, and then thanked him again, with a little bow of my own. I got called by register #5. Cashier #5 seemed like a nice older lady, and she was extremely helpful. I put the postage for the envelope (airmail, about 3 GBP or so) on the work cc (yes, a swipey card, but she was all over it after a little tutoring from the supervisor). Well, that was 20 minutes I'd never get back. We chuckled about how long the computer took and the fact that she had to walk across the back of all the other cashiers, down to Cashier #1's station to mail anything in a POST OFFICE. On to the box! I weighed it (3.6 kilos). My goodness! Cashier #5 wasn't sure if she could even mail something that heavy. Let's see... 10 days, no. 15-day? No. Ah, we can send it by sea. It would be 6-8 weeks, and about 47 GBP. WHAT????? The time didn't really bug me, because I wasn't going to be home until April most likely, and wouldn't see the girls until a week or so later, but $75 to mail about 8 lbs? At the longest/cheapest? I don't even think there was $75 worth of stuff in the box! One fourth the weight was due to things I'd appropriated gratis like guides, ticket stubs, etc. She assured me that if I kept it down to 2 kg or less I could ship the smaller parcel for 21 GBP, but faster [Still 42 GBP for my 3.6 kilos worth of stuff]. WHAT??? I'm pretty sure that US Mail ships 4 lbs for about $15 overseas. I know I sent a friend in Germany a 4-lb box PRIORITY for about that, not too long ago. Oi veh. Just charge me, #5. No big deal. And walk over to #1's station to do it. I escaped from the WH Smith and made my way back to the hotel, somewhat relieved. That's 8 lb less stuff I have to figure out how to pack in my bags! Got on the Internet and emailed the front desk my documents to print [Don't ask why I had to do it this way]. I went downstairs with my luggables, got Zoe to print out the confirmation documents, and I was off! On my way out, again!

The drive to Stansted Airport felt longer than it should have, but it went pretty well. I got petrol in Cheltenham before I left, and although I had to go through Oxford to get to Stansted, I resolutely routed around the town because I didn't want to spoil my experience the next weekend. The radio and traffic kept me nicely comatose for the 2 1/2 hours it took to drive to the airport. I got to Stansted reasonably early, about 1:45 in the afternoon for my 4:15 flight, but I figured better early than late. Parked in Pink Elephant (long-term), the pre-reservation worked well, took the shuttle bus to the terminal, and parked myself at Caffe Ponti with a nice hot bowl of pancetta and bean soup, a BLT on honeygrain bread, and a coke-zero. Good enough. I figured I wouldn't be eating until about 10-1030 *if* I could find any food (Scotland arrival and the Burger King 'meal' haunting my GI system). I got my boarding passes, then wandered around Stansted looking for a couple of silly pins for the Chucks. Eventually, 2:30 came around and I went through security, running my pack through the xray machine and giving the attendant my plastic baggie with the toothpaste, deodorant, mini-mouthwash, dayQuil gelcaps, and emergency asthma inhaler. All went smoothly. I was half-anticipating a disaster. I'd read the horror stories about Ryanair on the Internet review site and just winced whenever I looked at the Departures monitor. Sure enough, I saw Palermo flash yellow and go to a 15-minute delay... Oh, wait! It went back to normal! Hm. I went through the international departure area (no attendant at the UK outgoing border, surprisingly) and made it to my gate, with plenty of time to spare. I queued in the Non-Priority-Q area, near what appeared to be a group of Sicilians! Ha. Let's see if I can describe this without playing into stereotypes.

First off, we (people of Mediterranean ancestry) tend to have a far darker complexion than most of the Inglesi I have seen and met. So there's a clue. If you are in England and see a group of Caucasian people who are significantly darker than most of the others you have seen recently and clustered (packed) tightly in a group, you might assume they are of a Mediterranean group, or at least a group familiar with the idea of close contact. If you know about cultures, you might guess they were Greek or (southern) Italian. I think that's reasonable. Second, of course, if you are familiar with it, you would recognize the Italian language being flung back and forth, with the aid of hand gestures where appropriate, between members of the first huddle, from the first to the second, from the second back to the first, from the first via the second to the end, from the end to the people at the vending machine 15 yards or more away, ... Wow! At least it sounded like Italian. With a few twists, maybe, softer 'g's and a little more elongation on the vowel sounds than the audio course I'd had, which was a little 'clipped'. But the elongation could have been an exaggeration due to the excessive volume. I was sure I'd find out. So I was in the line, between cluster 2 and cluster 3, in amongst the fair-skinned folk of Winter, who had a great deal more space between them. Even queued.

I observed the groups in turn and was pleased! I thought ahead to my forthcoming sojourn with these intimate, passionate people, moaning about soccer and children and parents to (apparent) strangers, and felt a little fuzziness spread over me. Whoohoo! Behind me in the line was a pink, blond girl (about 22), and behind her was a dark, short older lady, who seemed to be fuming about something. She placed her hand on the young girl's shoulder and demanded "Scusa, dovelagented'lbiletto?" I have never seen a more panicked person in my life. She went from pink to transparent green. The older (Italian) lady crinkled her frown into what was supposed to be a smile and repeated the question a little slower, a little more formal, and with some accompanying hand gestures: "Dov'e 'l'agente del biglietto?" I sort of understood the first time, and I definitely understood the second time (Where is the ticket official). I sort of shifted my feet: "Signora, gli agenti non sono qui adesso. Deve aspettare. Le posso aiutare?" It wasn't quite right, I don't think... But she got it. Wow! My first Italian words not to myself or in text form! Yay! She decided I couldn't help her, and followed my gesture to the front desk. She demanded something of me, and it was a LONG sentence... I thought from context she was asking me whether I would hold her place in line when she went to talk to the Ryanair people. I asked her to show me her ticket (Non la capisco, ma ... per favore, fa vedere il suo biglietto a me). I saw the 'Priority-Q' stamp on it, so I motioned her to that place. I had to point at the words on the ticket, and then at the sign and (very short) line for priority boarders. She grinned and arrivederci'd me and the girl and sashay'd over to the other line. It looked like she ended up next to another Italian lady, so they talked for a while. Well, that went well. "Um, don't speak Italian?" I said to the younger girl. She replied "No, not a bit." It turns out that Henny (whose name I got a little later on) was off to visit an Internet friend in Palermo. She'd gotten a school break and decided to cave in to the Italian charm (OK, I'm making that part up). Seriously, why not? It was a great time of year to get the hell out of Germany, which is where she was from, so seemed like a good plan to me! I told her so, and I also complimented her English, which was way better than mine. That seems to be a pattern in Europe. Everyone speaks English better than me. I also realized I can't hear German accents, they're too natural to me. Thanks, Dad!

We eventually boarded the plane, on time, more or less, and got seated. I ended up next to a couple of English ladies, on holiday together. They'd been to Sicily before (Palermo), and decided to go back for a second shot to Corleone and Siracusa for their 2-week holiday. Neat! The lady in the middle seat regaled me with stories of her trips to Kazhakistan (she'd just gotten back) and the U.S. for her work. She also gave me a few pointers on dealing with H.R. (yeah, so watch out, work!) because that was her position. And I remember neither her nor her companion's name, which is a real shame, because they were both truly lovely conversationalists. The lady in the window seat toyed with the idea of ordering a Ryanair pizza (which both the lady in the middle and I chastised her pretty roundly for - we were on the way to ITALY). Eventually, there was a lull between the Kazakh stories and my Alaska and Cheltenham and France stories, and I fell asleep. I awoke as we were 'nearing' the Palermo airport, or so the announcement indicated. Descent was fine, landing had a very loud ripping squeal come from the front landing gear, as well as a tremor and shake which rocked the plane. But it was ok after about 10 seconds, and we trollied up to the gate. The flight attendants prepared for debarkment in short order. We filed off the plane, and as I stepped off the ramp onto the airport 'ground' (runway), I felt the familiar tingle and rush, a little more pronounced than usual. This wasn't just a new, different place, this was a special place.

Shuffled across the border (another tingle saying 'grazie' to the guard!!!), stamped and herded through the gates, I continued on through the 'Arrivals' area of the Palermo airport. I looked for signs saying 'Pullman' or 'Autobus', which would direct me to the fastest, safest, and cheapest (!) way into town. I threaded through the multitudes of people hugging, kissing, and crying on each other as their long-lost relatives came home at last. I mean, it had probably been *weeks* for most of these people. Drama drama drama. Hahahaha. Now I know where Mom got it from. A little sadness bit me just then. I had no family waiting to see me on my arrival. I'd never met any of that side except my Aunt, toward the very end of my mom's life, and my Great-Aunt and Great-Uncle, near the beginning of my life. I sighed and passed a hand over my face. Ah well, the insistent signs (in *Italian*!!!) directed me out the door, past the taxi stand, down a very dark sidewalk-alley (a little creepy!), and into an area with a couple of benches and a list of times. I had 'lost' an hour flying, so I looked at the bus times and checked my watch, and saw that a bus would be here pretty shortly. Hooray! I sat on the bench, enjoying the warm weather (probably about 60 degrees F). Oh crap! I don't have any money! Dammit! I ran back to the terminal, cursing the currencies in Europe. How did people do this before the Euro? Then I chastised myself... I have made some pretty strong statements regarding the demise of culture in Europe as tied to money - no more franc, no more lire, no more mark, ... soon, no more pound. All right, grumble grumble... I ran in the arrivals level and looked around, no ATM! Up the stairs to departures... Damn! Damn! Hey, there was a girl in the information booth... 'Scusi, Signora, dov'e la machina de... non so la parola! Di ... ehrm ... soldi?' She smiled, 'C'e un bancomat.. BAN-CO-MAT.. li, li.' She pointed at a softly glowing red "Banco Sicilia - Bancomat" sign. Yay! I breezed through the menu and got some funny-money - Ha! I didn't see a notice of a surcharge, so I just grabbed the cash and receipt and ran back to the bus stop, almost bowling over a couple of Inglesi along the way. "Scusi! Prego!"... Up into the bus, 5.60 euro to the driver, I stumbled on 'centi' (cents, also 'hundreds'). I wanted to use Fritalian 'centimi'. Hee hee. Money money money. The plural of 'cent' in Italian is formally 'cent', according to the official currency site. Ah well. I got on the bus and plopped down next to Henny. The middle-seat lady came on and plopped across the aisle from me. Window-seat had decided to take the train instead of the bus. We had a couple of interesting conversations with middle-seat's bus neighbor, at the opposite window, who was an American au-pair working in Sicilia, and we talked about Henny's small home town in Germany. Nice quick ride. It was very dark, so there was nothing to distract us from the conversations. We started making stops, eventually, after about 30 minutes (it's 30 km or so from the airport to downtown Palermo). My new au-pair friend mentioned that since I was hungry (I had mentioned it, twice), I might want to get off at Piazza Politeama instead of Stazione Centrale, because the theater district would be a better source of food, or partying if that was what I had in mind. Ha! I assured the ladies that I was going to get some food at a decent hole-in-the-wall (hopefully!) and leave the partying to others, or to a longer stay. I didn't want to lose 3 hours the next day to a hangover.

We pulled into the P.za Politeama stop, and middle-seat, au-pair, and I bustled out of the bus, the ladies getting their bags from the undercarriage - nothing stolen. I bid them adieu (arrivederci) and they wandered off, one to the west, the other across the piazza for the next bus. I gazed at the Teatro Politeama for a while, it was lit pretty well from the street and the few roof lights, the horses coursing out into the night sky, definitely a presence in the Piazza, but I definitely wanted to see it during the day. Turning southward, I followed the au-pair's suggestion, heading along via Maqueda, toward downtown. Sure enough, not more that 5-8 minutes later, I came upon Teatro Massimo. Wow! Massimo indeed. The thing was huge! Opera must be a BIG deal around here, pun intended! I don't think it was as big as l'Opera in Paris is, but man! The way it was offset, and the curves of the building, under the soft-amber/golden lights. It hulked and gracefully arched at the same time. I was going to learn that that was a hallmark of Palermo - its paradoxes in architecture. Breaking myself of the trance, I continued an alley or two further south, and picked a suitably dark but well-populated one, with chairs and tables spilling out into the streets, gelato-eaters and wine-swillers raucousing up the evening. There should be a good place down this one, I thought. I knew what I was getting. In Italia, pizza, primo, presto. I kept walking, passing a few likely suspects, and then an open kitchen. An old dude shouted 'He, signore! Volete mangiare ?" "Oui-SI!" Only slightly more hungry than mortified, I followed him around the front and then the back of the kitchen, into the restaurant. A shabby, balding, cheesy-moustached maitre d' type seated me, glanced around nervously, and ran back to the entryway. The back one. Perfect. Probably waiting for the 'cleanup' crew. He eventually came back with water and a slight tic under his right eye. I ordered una pizza vegetariana and un 'mezzo' del vino rosso. (Half-carafe, about 2 - 2 1/2 glasses). I swear, he YELLED the order for the pizza 'Paulo! Una Pizza Vege!" "No, no! Vege!" "VegeTARIana!" His voice obviously carried out the door, through the alley, and in the door to Paulo. 5 minutes later, in a little more disheveled state, the maitre came back with the wine and plumped the carafe down on the table "ecco!" "Posso?" I doubletook. Oh... the water! "Oui-SI, puo! Grazie!" "Prego..." He wandered off, distracted. The diner next to me had jerked his head up at the French. "He, bonjour!" he said. "Bonjour, " I replied cautiously. The guy rapid-fired French at me in a very pointed accent. He was Edouard, Eduardo here, or Edua, or Pinche, a Senegali, evidently, working here in Palermo as a dishwasher. I thought I was holding my own, but not too well, when he surprised me with a 'ainsi, es-tu francais?' I nearly spat. 'Euh... non, je suis americain. Gerhard.' Wow! Now that was a compliment!

The pizza arrived, and Edouard ran off to the kitchen, mealtime done. He had mentioned that they should be picking up very shortly with the after-opera crowd, and the boss (maitre d') was tasked with waiting for some kind of delivery. Uh huh. I dug in, knifing and forking it. A 12-inch piece of absolute perfection. Chantrelles, buffalo cheese, sweet red pepper, red onion, tangy blackish/purple olives. That was it, and not much of the toppings or the cheese. The crust was well-done, almost black on the edge. Heaven. Unexpectedly thin - I had been told to expect focaccia in Sicilia. And this was thin as a cracker, but pliable and chewy under the crispy. Oh my gosh. I was *sad* when it was gone. I ate the crust. I would have eaten the crumbs. I finished my second glass of wine and poured myself the half remaining. "Posso?" I realized he was motioning to the now-empty plate. "Si, si, puo, grazie, signore." I felt goooood. About 10 minutes later, I went exploring for the dude, because I needed caffe and gelato! He was still pacing around outside, looking down the alley very anxiously. "Scusi, signore, posso otenere del dolce?" He turned as if struck. "Prego, prego..." He dragged me back in by the hand, lightly tapped it, and sat me down. He asked me what I would like. I asked for gelato di cioccolata and un caffe doppio. He nodded and dashed off, no yelling, came back in like 45 seconds with both. I did like a double take and was too stunned at the speed to even say grazie. He ran back to the front. Okay... I ate the gelato. Not so great, it had some ice chunks in it. The caffe was excellent though, perfect offset to the wine and a good kick to get me moving. Which I did. I tracked the man down again (not too hard to do), and saw that some guests had arrived in the front, two tables worth, about 4 each, in the past 10 minutes or so! I told him I had to go, and the pizza was wonderful! He nodded and gave me the bill, unfazed that I had to chase him down. 20 euro, even. I was a little suspicious at the 'even' part, but paid and tipped 20%. Why not? Overall, great success! I grabbed my pack, buona notte'd the new guests, silently wishing them luck with this odd, but mostly-nice guy. I hoped his 'delivery' was a success. Back to the Teatro!

I had read on the Internet that one does not hail a cab in Palermo, one goes to a taxi stand. Since I was not familiar with the bus system, and I am somewhat familiar with the way cities work, I figured there was a taxi stand at the Teatro Massimo. Sure enough! After a suitable 5-minute awestruck dumbness at the majesty of the thing, I found a likely dude leaning up against a minivan, smoking. "He, ciao!" I said, picking up on the lingo (he was ok with it, evidently, probably gets He'd all day). I asked him "Quant'e per l'Holiday Inn?" He told me, 16 euro. I gnashed my teeth internally. I had figured it was about 2 or 3 km to the HI. OK, ok... I'll splurge it. "Bene!" "Bene?" he asked, sort of shocked. He let me in the front and I clambered on in, tossing my pack in the back. He started off in Italian, then after a glance in the mirror, saw the French pin on my bag. "Tu parles francais?" he asked excitedly. Sigh. Yes, and English too. We talked mostly in Italian with a few French words thrown in. I learned Inghilterra, and stumbled over his 'doppo' (after, but he defined it as 'apres'). It was a great ride, mostly him quizzing me about the US and England. I told him he must look me up when he got to Disney World, and gave him a card. Marco, nice guy. He gave me his email and phone in case I needed a cab later on in the weekend. Ciao! He got a 20 from me.

Finally. I stumbled graspingly into the HI lobby. Buona sera! Confirmed my reservation, got the key, denied the breakfast... I did ask if 15-20 euro was reasonable for Teatro M to here. The clerk said it's usually 15 during the day, 20 at night. So I did ok. Relatively. I buona notte'd my way out of there. Got into the room and slammed/bolted the door and plugged in/turned on the computer. Wifi, no problem, perfect! Email check, quick call to the girls...

"Guess where I am? Oh... you guessed."

Ha. A good good day.



Album link: Facebook "Sicilia - Mamma Mia!"

[GJF: Written 4 Feb 2009.]

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Dollar, Scotland - Castle Gloom and Dollar Glen

I woke up on Sunday at 7:15, galvanized to go. I ran out with the nonessentials to the car. Well, I say 'ran' but it was more like skating and sliding across the frozen car park. On the way back Clockwise from top left: The Union Flag ('Union Jack' is for maritime flyings), The Saltaire Flag or St. Andrew's Cross of Scotland, and the Historic Scotland Flag.in, I reassured the lass at the desk that I wasn't quite ready to check out just yet, and grabbed a coffee to take back to the room while I puttered around with the shower and getting dressed and cleaned. I had packed the stupid deodorant in the car! Dammit! I got my backpack and the plastic bag with the rest of my stuff together and hustled to the desk, checked out (no swipey needed, no additional charges beyond the deposit), slipped and skidded back out to the car, and chucked my stuff in the trunk. I fished out my deodorant and froze my nipples off deodorizing (it was -1 (30 F) out!). Brrrrrr! I jumped in the car, cranked it, and planned my day as it warmed up.

Not that there was that much to plan. I had wanted to drive over to Dollar, the town below Castle Gloom, about 12 miles to the east of Stirling, right along the A91. From there, I would tour the Castle and if I had time, I'd walk up and down one or the other of the Glens surrounding it. I let the car warm up. According to my thermostat, it was exactly freezing out. Well, hopefully it would warm up a little bit. I didn't think the Castle would be more than an hour or hour and a half, and a 'glen' didn't sound all that imposing... (Ha). I popped the car into gear and took off, north, then east. The road was clear and the Highlands were misty. A perfect brisk morning. Snow on the hills, a little dusting on the sides of the road... Ahhh. I passed through a couple of small towns, most of the people I saw either pulling into churches or wandering around in front of churches. Small towns, happy people, travelling to be inspired... like me! 12 miles of speed-limit-50, then 30, then 50, then 30, then 50, then 30... Aha! A sign, turn left... NOW!

I followed the small streets through Dollar north to the castle. And when I say small, I mean that a standard bus would have filled the walled street. Dollar is OLD. Stone half-walls crowded either side of the streets as I got closer to the Castle. Wait a minute, what did that sign say? Park here, but additional parking 550 m further on? Well shoot, I can go park closer! What's a little slush on the road? I was in upstate NY for 10 years, right? Wrong. I should learn: castles are built on very STEEP mountains or hills or sheer rocks. Yeah. OK, I made it about 300 meters up the hill, until the slush got about an inch and a half deep. Then I stood still, then I started sliding backwards. I'm sure I mentioned the road was almost exactly a car and a half wide? With rocks on the one side and a fence made of *twine and furring strips* on the other side (the side steeping down to the glen, rocks, and water 30 yards below)? I thought I did. So I did what any red-blooded American man would do who had rolled a car off a mountain before (not in this blog, sorry). I pressed the brakes down, turned the wheel, pulled the parking brake, and put the stick into neutral. I slid back a little, then settled. I guess enough snow and slush got under the tires to stop my descent. The slope wasn't that steep, probably 15-20 degrees. Right. I did not see any way to turn around, so I decided on the slide-slowly-back-down-and-change-my-underwear-later ploy. I slid, 3 yards, ok, enough! Stop. Turn wheel. Start another slide. 5 yards! Too much, fence too close! Brakes. Still sliding... Stop. I proceeded in this fashion until I got to a small notch in the road. I slid-backed in (didn't ding any of the boulders on the side of the road), and had enough room to turn about. Great. Now I was sliding headfirst, slowly, down the hill. At least it took the pressure off the steering, that was a plus. I got back to the lower car park and settled into a parking spot. Ok, I walk from here. Checked the Chucks. Ok, I walk through the glen from here, no way these are gonna make it on slushy concrete. D'oh! I should have 'Scotland is a wee bit moist n muddy' tattoo'd on my palm. I had a perfectly good 'new' pair of running shoes in the trunk. But I'm a little stubborn. And a little sentimental. Those hitops have seen a lot, and they deserve the grand tour before they go out to pasture.

I walked over to the fence and opened the rickety gate, passed through, and began the descent into Dollar Glen. I checked the map, conveniently posted about 5 yards along the path. There were about 7 marked points along the path, which ran in a circle, crossing the stream four times (there was an S on the east side of the loop). It looked like the east route was a little shorter, so I decided to take the west loop first on the way to the top (castle), and then take the east loop back down later after my visit. I squelched down the hill, squeezing water from the mud and moss with every step, more and more little rivulets and drips with every foot further down the glen. When I got to the stream level, there was a little stone platform jutting out to give the hiker a view of Dollar Burn. Now, I don't know what 'burn' means in Scottish, but I assumed it meant 'cut' as in a steep-sided stream cut through a hill, like a gorge. Becacuse that's what I saw. Fast-flowing water, lots of mossy green growth, branches fallen across the creek, and (imagined due to the temperature probably) a heavy loamy smell in the air. Quiet, peaceful. The water rushed below me and the overcast light filtered through the light canopy. Nice. I moved on, south to the first bridge, and began to cross. I heard a yip and a bark, saw a border collie rushing along the path, followed by a runner. Both came on the bridge, so I sucked in my gut and held onto the rope rail to let them pass. The runner said 'Good Morning', the pup gave me a cursory sniff, and off they ran, up the west bank and out of sight. I plodded on, up the steps (boards set into place with rebar crosswise and filled with dirt) to the top of the glen. I was treated to a view of farmland off to the west, with snowy hills in the near-distance and a rude stone wall separating two estates. Northward, skirting the glen, I could peer down and see the trees and branches and nature's green chaos vying for light and water, moss creeping up the slopes. Once I crossed the highest point, I could see the castle to the northeast. A welcome sight, because the damp was starting to chill my hands, and it was still just at freezing. The castle peeped in and out of the branches for the rest of my northward jaunt, down (squish) and then up (oof!), until I got to the second bridge. I remembered that there was a 'falls' marked here on the map, so I studied the babbling creek running down it's rocky inlet at the north of the glen. I wouldn't call it a falls, but it was charming and cute. More of the ubiquitous moss filled every available niche on the falls, with the overcast silver giving it way more brilliance than it ought to have. What was this place like in the Spring or Summer? I tried to follow the creek further north, there was a footpath, but my feet betrayed me and I went down. Hard. And cold. Ouch. Left leg crusted over with slush and peaty earth. Hands just about frozen, shirt wet... Well, that was enough of that! Up to the north side of the castle, and hopefully a heater. Serendipitously, just as I got to the gate of the castle, the runner and his dog were having a chat with the caretaker, who introduced himself to me as (another) Ken. I took a short break and sat outside the castle on a bench while I waited for Ken to right himself and open up. He came out a few minutes (surprisingly short time) later and beckoned me in. I went through the main gate into the courtyard, ready for the Introduction.

Ken and I talked for a little while in the main Close of the Castle. We discussed the Union flag over Castle Stirling and the Historic Scotland flag over Campbell, and the political ramifications of the Saltaire (St. Andrew's Cross, for Scotland) flag flying. Apparently HM Government is sensitive to flying the Scot national flag due to the separatist sentiment in Scotland. They're allowed to fly it on St. Andrew's Day (in November) and that's about it. On UK holidays, the Union flag is flown, and most other times, the Historic Scotland flag. I did tell Ken about Cardiff and the preponderance of the Welsh flag. He raised an eyebrow and said "Well, that's interesting, isn't it?" He sold me an entry ticket and a guide book (no audio here :-( ). Then Ken took the opportunity to 'chat with' (monologue, but not in a pedantic way) me the archaeological theories currently in fashion about Castle Campbell.

Castle Campbell is old. It's passed from family to family, eventually ending up as part of the Argyll estate in the mid 1700s, along with Argyll's Dwelling which I had seen the previous day in Stirling. It's incongruous, though. The Stewarts had a presence there during their tenure in the 1500s in Scotland, and they feasted visitors in the (smaller-than-Stirling) great hall. Italian influences were evident on the archways off the Close, and the towers came from different ages, from the 1400s (!) to the early 1600s. Extensive interior works were completed by the Stewarts, moving a bit of functionality here or there within the castle, digging cellars under the great hall, extending the gardens. There was a massive fire and some destruction in the early 1600s which led to a rebuilding of one of the tower spiral stairs and a redistribution of the brig (holding cell), guards quarters, and kitchens. The upper floor of the main tower was the Master Quarters, and there were two 'Green Man' faces on the ceiling which looked like they could function as lamp hooks. The stairways were quite wide and generous, the windows opened on pleasant but not-fantastic views, and there was a sense of tranquility to this Castle that wasn't present at Stirling. First, Stirling castle supported a huge population, the grounds are enormous. Second, Stirling castle was an integral part of the town. Its waste ran into and its retainers were in and amongst Stirling's population daily, if not hourly. Dollar is a little further removed from Castle Campbell. It's still in view, and a very short ride, but the glen provides a physical separation that Stirling doesn't have. Ken went on to tell me about the caretaker's quarters (his home), installed by the Crown when they acquired the place, located on the north end of the castle, second and third floors. I commented that that would give a person a lot of peace and solitude, and probably would not be a bad way to live, especially if you had friends in town, but could 'escape' back home. We batted back and forth the pros and cons of such a life and living in an old stone structure with 19th century wiring. Eventually, I screwed up the courage to mention that I was a bit thirsty and would very much like some water or tea to drink. I was told that the warning not to drink the water here was rubbish and Ken had subsisted on the tap water for years. He'd hunt me up some water in the tea room. I ended up buying his last two diet Cokes for 1.40.

OK, I was ready to explore! Ken had me thumb through the guide book. As I got to the portion about the cellar storage areas, with my guide reading over my shoulder making little comments like "oh aye, you've got to check out those seams between the rocks!" or "you'll love the ceilings at the top!" he suddenly remembered something and dragged me back into the gift shop. Ken said, "Hey, I've got a little mining headlamp I can lend you. If you'd like?" Hell yea! I thanked him profusely. Now I was an official Castle Underground Explorer! I climbed up the stairs, noting the alcoves for guard placement. I also noticed that the floor numbering in the guide book did not quite match the number of landings on the stairs. I think the book called the Master Quarters the second floor, but it was the fourth landing. The rooms (floors) were vaulted and spacious, and surprisingly well-lit from the meager light glittering through the single window on each floor. The first floor (third landing) appeared to have been a barracks, at least evidenced from the brig hole near the stair. I had seen a similar pit in Castle Campbell and Castle Cardiff. I guess that was standard procedure, just throw the incarcerated down into the hole. Easy-peasy. The stonework was tight-fit, and looked somewhat freshly mortared. Renovation at work, no doubt. The second (fourth) floor's ceiling was immensely vaulted, with the two Green-Man decorations, and I could see the bore holes in their mouths for chandelier or lighting hanging, of course. I put the mining lamp to good use and jumped a few times to get a little closer for some better focus and detail. After the Master Quarters, I continued up, to the roof. Surprise! There was a shingled attic with access from the roof (boarded up at present, with a note 'Leave the Bats alone, they're protected!'). But the view from the top was majestic and soggy and ... dare I say ... gloomy! I descended the stair well, noting at one of the guard alcoves above the second landing and below the third that there was a very curious juxtaposition of silvery snow-blue light from the window and warm orangey light from the gift shop. The two hues were perfectly divided by the stair's center column. Wow! Down a little more, out into the Close, to the remnants of the Great Hall. This ruin had a lot of character and some tough bones! Along the tumbled hallway, there were steps going into four cellar chambers. I silently thanked Ken for the lamp again and ducked in to find dry, spacious storage areas which were used for salting meat or laying aside grains, I suppose. Probably beer-brewing as well! I went back out into the Close and was somewhat cheered to hear high feminine voices, a group of about 4 girls, I guessed, approaching for their turn at the tour.

Ken, aided by his Caretaker Radar-Sense, bustled out from the gift shop/tea room and made ready to welcome his next set of guests. A girl dashed in and then dashed out of the Close, before he got the chance to say 'boo'. He chased after her, then shuffled back into the Close, somewhat dejected. "Ah, they wanted to walk the glen and the hill, first." He came over and confided, "So, you know how I told you not to bother with the gardens because of the weather?" I nodded. "Well," he winked, "I 'forgot' to mention the poop shaft and the Pulpit." I blinked. Did he just say... "Aye, there's a cut in the glen out past the garden and a bridge to a stone arch. Now, we know that John Knox spent some time here, and there's a tradition that he preached from that arch and platform, but according to the historians, he would have been in the hall, and that's all rubbish." I thanked him again. Sure, I'm interested in history! If the founder of the Church of S had associations with this arch, it at least deserved a picture. And I must admit, I was curious to see this crease that they think might have been the wastewater sluice. Why not run it right to the castle? I went out the castle garden gate and promptly slipped and fell (that's 2!) on the slushy cobble walk down. Dammit! Left side again! Grumbling and thanking Knox or whomever that my camera was slung to the right, I righted myself and slid a little more cautiously to the stone formation. I wasn't sure if the stones between the mortar were carved, blasted, chiseled, hewn, or natural. I'm not a geologist, nor am I an anthropologist. It was pretty cool, though. It looked like it had been assembled in 2 stages to my untrained eye. The sluice was overgrown with more moss and lichens and was well-shadowed. No petrified Stewart number-2 that I could see. However, the view from the Pulpit to the castle was impressive, as was the glen overlook from there. I think that this halfway mark, between the silver-lit world of stone above and the vibrant green mire below, internalized for me the true mournfulness of that gray behemoth on the hill. I picked my way back up to the castle and hunted up Ken and returned the head lamp. I said I was heading back down to the car park. He smiled and shook my hand and bade me to tell Dunedin halloo when I got back. He also asked whether I was planning on sliding down the road or going through the glen (I think he'd noticed my snowy mudded pants). I shook my head and chuckled and said that it didn't matter too much at this point, eh? Ken kind of studied the back of his hand and fingernails. He deadpanned, "Aye, and I noticed a couple of wee-car tire tracks on the road up this morning. Looks like two cars tried to make it where they oughtn't have." I grinned back and said "Yeah, I think that was all me, brother. I'm really happy I didn't take your fence out." He replied, "Aye, even though we haven't had the fun of pulling anyone out of the glen in years, I'm glad you made it back down." We shook hands again and I left for my descent back down Dollar Glen. I made my way out the north end of the castle grounds, 'baaa'd at the surprised sheep, and hooked right to get to the east footpath. This bank turned out to be orders of magnitude more interesting than the west.

The soles of my shoes stuck in the loam and slush, but it wasn't quite as wet as when I come up the west side. Ken had warned me that the view back up to the castle from this side wasn't quite as grand, but I would have to disagree: with the canopy fallen for the winter, this angle on Gloom was spectacular! I stood in the hollow below gazing up at the walls and windows and stones, with the tree's fingers seeming to suspend the pieces in midair. It was grand. I followed the path up and down along the creek bank, crossing one bridge made of twine, wire, and stone, passing a small fork down to what was probably another burn, and then onto... wait! Another burn! I doubled back, cursing at losing myself in reverie and the green high of nature's spectacle. The glen was just so alive! Even without animals prowling about and the trees asleep, the moss and ground cover gave it such a ... life! I went down into the Burn of Sorrow. The creek cut vertically through the west wall of the glen, making a small falls and looking like a miniature of the Argo's path through the Clashing Rocks. That was seriously the first thing I thought of: Greek seas, with sheer rock faces separated by churning straits. It was the charcoal-colored stone and deep green mosses, the sound and sight of the water coursing, and my mood, of course. I looked off to the south and saw fallen branches and tumbled boulders, leavings from when the creek was broader and mightier and pounded this hill to dislodge them. Everywhere there was an emerald carpet. I thought forward to Ireland, as well. Is this the kind of deep all-covering green I would see there? To find this much life in January, the dead of winter, with slush and snow all around and the temperature hovering at the freezing point... It was unnerving. The Celts must have known something that we and their modern scions have lost. A little humbled, a little put off, I drank the scene in as removed from it, and climbed back to my woven stone bridge. That was the last major stop on the way out of the glen, except the final climb, when I wanted to follow a footpath to get the view from the glen's highest point, and slipped and fell to my knee (left, of course, and that was 3!). That was it, it was time to go. I scrambled through the gate and to the car. I popped the second (and final) diet Coke procured from Ken and started the car. Let it warm up. Looked 'round. Got in. Took off. South through the windy Dollar streets, back to A91, back to M80, ...

The drive home, during the day, was significantly faster than the drive to Stirling. Considering I had added about 15 miles to my drive, and it took me 45 minutes less time, I was in a fine mood the whole way. I guess Sunday drivers don't make it out to the motorways. I listened to a few noncommital book reviews on the BBC, a gardening show, and a review of Frost/Nixon, which I decided I might go see on an off night. At first, I tried flipping the station for some music, but since I'm not a Technohead nor am I an 80's freak, I stuck with the calm English voices on BBC-4. Oh yeah! I'd forgotten that 'Lost' was to be on Sky-1 Cable this evening. Whoo-hoo! And it looked like I'd make it with plenty of time to get rested and ready! I stopped off for petrol around Blackpool, got a quick bite there, and zoomed the rest of the way without incident, except the normal annoyances of drizzle and mud-spatters from the cars ahead of me.

When I got back to Cheltenham, after saying hellos to the desk staff and dropping off my stuff in the room and showering, I ran out to get some take-away food from Prezzo's. Pizza (personal) and chicken med-salad. M m m m M! And another soda. I was ready! I even plunked down 70p in the vending machine in the lobby (yes, they had put a vending machine in that weekend, probably so that the staff didn't have to talk to people unnecessarily) to get a Cadbury Dairy-Milk candy bar! Oh boy! I went to the channel guide. What? No Sky-1? Maybe one of these other arcane abbreviations means Sky-1. Never mind that Sky-3 is spelled out fine. Call the desk. "Hallo?" a warm Northern Irish voice lilted. "Hiya, Brooke, this is Gerhard." "Oh, hallo. Can I help you?" "Yeah, what channel is Sky-1? On the tv?" "Oh, I'm sorry, the rooms don't get Sky-1. We have it down here in the lobby if there's something you'd like to watch after the football is over." "No, thanks, Brooke."

Damn.

[GJF: Written 27 January 2009]

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Stirling part 2 - Landmarks and Monuments, The Haggis and Dinner:

And yes. I went into the Gift Shop first. I bought a few mementos for my daughters, a pin for the Chucks, and a Castle entry ticket and audio guide reservation for the tour. I was told I should go meet Ken in the main receiving area and I could get my guide from Mary, at the booth. All righty then! I was in business. The Castle outer entryway is impressive, and I had already gotten a sense of the weight of the place from walking around the perimeter and hillsides all morning, so I was ready to see the insides, the guts, where the magic happens. Ken greeted me warmly, and he pushed a 'free' ticket for a later tour to Argyll's Lodging on me.

Now, I have heard stories about the Scots (mostly from the English), and I was very wary of the word 'free'. But I grinned and accepted it, especially after he explained the ulterior motive: employment. Apparently Historic Scotland (as opposed to the Royal Scottish Historical Society, politics - sheesh!) is trying to press HM Government for more funding based on the vast multitudes of tourists they have to accommodate with their limited funding and staff. Ken and his comrades' goodnaturedly pushy modus operandi had achieved their body count quota and then some for Argyll's for the quarter, but they wanted to show off that they could overachieve! I'm in for that - stick it to the Man (or the Woman, in this case, I suppose)!

I stopped off in the Unicorn Cafe, off the Outer Close, for a couple of (berry) scones, coffee, and sausages. Very good, and subtly flavored. Well worth the price. The proprietoress prided herself on getting local baked goods and her staff's home cooking recipes. To the castle!

The tour was exciting, the architecture amazing. Scottish humour pervaded the audio tour. The background dialogue of reenactment of Castle life was rife with overexaggerated Scot brogue (I'm sorry if it's a different word) and little insinuations about how James Stewart (VII and II) 'left' the Scots. It was highly intelligent, engaging, and sometimes hilarious. The story of Mary, Queen of Scots's baptismal banquet for James in the Great Hall had me chuckling out loud. It was the best audio programme of any of the sites I had been to to date. We were introduced to James, James, Mary, James, Charles, and the whole lot of royalty through the lasting architecture (dubbed the National Art of Scotland) they left at Stirling. I saw the French and Renaissance influences in the buildings. The detail and warmth belied any relation of these folks to their tight, cold neighbors to the South. It was almost a Latin feeling of family and squabbling and childishness and outdoing your rivals/forebears. Very comfortable.

As far as the feelings the buildings gave me, what pervaded it was the 'oh my gosh, they carried all this up here? They carved into WHAT? They rebuilt how many times? They went through how much sorrows and still rebuilt? THIS became a garrison?' Arching ceilings and images of Unicorns, Lions, everyday and mythological beasts, cold stone transformed to tell the stories of the generations, as each left its mark on the Castle. After the tour of the four main buildings, off the Inner Close, I walked around the outbuildings and parapets of the Castle. Along the back walls, there is an almost-sheer 100-foot drop to the base of the hill. I went through the kitchens, the barracks (converted by the English to officers' quarters, while the Great Hall was converted to a mass barracks), the smithy, and assorted other Castle functional buildings. What a difference from Cardiff (the only other example I have of a war-castle)!

I checked my watch and noted that it was almost time for my 'free' tour! I hustled to the receiving area and queued up with the rest of the group. Our guide for the walk down to Argyll's was Allan, another extremely good-humoured Scot who said he'd walk us through the graveyard adjacent to the castle, as it would be more exciting than the road from the car park down (the way I had walked earlier). We all filed down a side stair from the Castle to the graveyard. It was a bright day, clearing as we got closer to noon, but I swear chill winds found us just on the occasion of stepping onto that mossy walk through the headstones. It also started to cloud up a bit. Undeterred, Allan walked us through the graves, and he told us the story of Drummond, an uptight Church of Scotland (Presbyterian to us in the US) supporter, made his fortune publishing religious pamphlets, who didn't like the idea of people picknicking and generally having a Scot good time along the embankment next to the Castle. There had evidently been a swath of unused land between the old cemetery and the hillside. Naturally, this guy bought up the land from the town (at an exorbitant fee) and extended the graveyard to cover it. He paid to have bodies and memorials relocated there and built an enormous pyramidal crypt (the Star Pyramid) with two great bronze eagles guarding it. It was built to honor people defending religious freedom in Scotland. Kind of a nice gesture, but I bet the living people missed their park too.

We eventually meandered our way to the street (Castle Street) and faced Argyll's. Now this place had some history. It had been through four or five owners of three different families, ranging from 1600ish to the mid-1800s! The original owner, when the residence was a smaller but fashonable L-shaped two-story, went with King James to London, if I recall correctly. The second owner, Sir Alexander, was involved with Nova Scotia and that failed attempt to allow Scots some colonization privileges. Then it passed to the Argylls, who successively expanded and extended and modernized it until the present day. It fell under government control in the 1800s and was used as a hospital. It was a hostel in the early 1900s, and now Historic Scotland has been restoring it so that we could see what life was like in the late 1600s in Stirling for the Earl of Argyll. It was a wonderful tour, and the H.S. people have done a remarkable job, getting furnishings and wall hangings and the like together. It was a very satisfying cross-section of upper-class colonial-era Scottish life.

By the time I got back to the Castle, I hunted up Ken, my gate-guard pal, and asked him where I could find some haggis for lunch. I told him I wanted as authentic a haggis I could get at a restaurant or pub. He tried to send me off to City Centre, but after having spun around THAT commercial district the previous night, I assured him that I didn't want American-spiced or English-blanded haggis, I wanted something he would go eat. Ken mumbled something about not eating haggis all that much, but if I were insistent, I could go to Whistlebinkie's just around the corner. Which I did. And I got The Haggis.

I walked around the corner, following Ken's instructions (I had actually passed Whistlebinkie's earlier that day), it's on St. Mary's Wynd or whatever road becomes St. Mary's Wynd along the face of Castle Hill. I walked into a front room with the standard pub layout, a couple of tables, bar, the difference from most of the English ones being the smell of cooking food that underlay the beer and sweat. I asked the barlady if I ordered food here, at the bar. She looked me up and down, and curtly jerked her thumb and pointed me to the back. 'The back' turned out to be a surprisingly well-lit dining area! I had sit-down service, and I confidently ordered The Haggis, please... The server (he) said very good, sir, would you like 'neeps and a wee bit of 'tatties with it? I asked quietly whether 'neeps meant turnips or parsnips. He winked and then whispered: "It's always turnips, sir". I said, ok, I'll get the 'neeps, but no potatoes, please. Very good! He brought me my coffee, fork and napkin, then returned with The Haggis about 10 minutes later. I had spent my time staring at the other diners. A couple were eating haggis, noone was dead or gagging. The soup seemed pretty popular, looked like chicken and rice. Most people were having tea, a couple of coffees, a few beers...

It was delightful. I think the server stared at me to see my reaction, especially after I took a picture of the plate. Sure, it had that livery flavor, and the consistency was slightly like chewy sand, but that is not a bad thing! When I went in for The Haggis, I wanted to leave myself open to the impressions that the Scots were trying to make with it, what culture there was to keep there. The Haggis is a big flying finger to other cultures, I think, all the while laughing at themselves for eating it, and everyone else for fearing it. Don't fear it, it's a lovely light-livery, peppery, oat stew. It's yummy, and more flavorful than anything I had traditionally English (with the exception of the extraordinary medium-rare ostrich with its brownish jus and roasted leeks and turnips I had at Storyteller in Cheltenham, but I think the chef snuck a French demi-glace on that one, and I'm not so sure that ostrich is traditionally English anyway). It's also a forkful-by-forkful helping of Scottish stubbornness and resourcefulness, as well as a reminder of hard times. It was very rich, however. I finished The Haggis and left the 'neeps.

Let's suffice to say that The Haggis stays with you for a while. I knew that I should have gotten a pint instead of the coffee, but... I also wanted to go to the Settle Inn. So I thanked the server and the barmaid on the way out (she was much happier to see me go, oddly), and made a left on St. Mary's down to the Settle Inn. I strode in. I walked up to the bar and asked the barmistress to recommend me a good local beer. She responded by asking me if I preferred a lager or a darker beer. I replied, the darker, the better! So she poured me Thripp-somethingorother ale, which was light for an ale, but very good, not too cold. I chatted with the regulars, a Bruce and a George, and a couple of local kids, a John and a James, had a pickled onion (whew!) and mentioned that I was from Dunedin, the sister city of Stirling in the states. I asked if I could take a few pictures, and they said certainly! So I got a few shots of the inside and hung around for about an hour/hour and a half. Pint drained, and getting on to 2:30 or so, I reluctantly left this cozy, charming pub for the cold outside world, determined to tick off at least one more sightseeing destination - The William Wallace Memorial Monument.

Now, James and John at the Settle warned me that it was the Mel Gibson monument. It looks so gothic, so imposing from the base and from across town... I figured it would have some gory history, maybe a burial chamber, arms and armor, bloody stories of war, ghosts... No. It had 237 steps, though, to the top, and a somewhat-sanitized audio history of Wallace and the Bruce and other Scot points of interest. It was definitely a worthwhile stop in that it gives an unrivaled view of Stirling and the highlands to the North. On a cloudy afternoon, near sunset, the river goes aflame with the right angle. Majestic, commanding, and COLD. I talked with a couple of American tourists being herded by their aunt who were amazed by the view also. They told me about L.A. and I told them about Dunedin. I think they won. On the way down the hill, I bumped into a couple of German tourists who were in my Argyll group, on their way up. They said they didn't want to climb all the way to the top, and I hesitated to tell them that there was really no other point in going. I'm sure they figured it out.

After climbing down the 237 steps and then half-sliding down the Memorial's hill, I was damn near frozen. Got in the car, revved the engine, and cranked the heat. I would have grabbed the exhaust pipe if it had been reachable. I spun off, and took the roundabout Northern route back to the hotel, catching some awe-inspiring views of the Highland foothills (again). I knew that I'd be coming back along this route the next day, to get to Dollar and Castle Gloom, and it was getting quite dim, so I decided to just get back to the hotel, rest my legs, and wrestle with the Internet.

I had decided that dinner would be at the well-lauded Clive Ramsay's in Bridge of Allan, the charming upscale shopper's delight to the north of Stirling. I got the Internet working, using a kludge or two, talked to the girls (Guess where I am! Oh...), lay down for a bit, then headed off. I had heard that Ramsay's tradition is 'fresh' produce and marvelous ways of using it, so I got the seasonal 'fresh' platter. Yeah. Some ham, cheese, and fruits. Not exactly reasonably priced. I mean, it was good stuff, but for a cold platter I could have probably thrown together in any deli from Long Island, I was less than impressed. I should have gotten some more haggis. Anyway, it was nice to get some fresh fruit after so long, I had been pretty much sticking to salads and roasted veg in England, and we can all guess that England and Scotland tend to be very meat-heavy. It was probably a wise choice after such a heavy lunch. Yeah.

Back to the hotel. I barely remember hitting the pillow, 'Castle Gloooooooom' running through my thoughts.






[GJF: Written 26 January 2009]